1969 Highboy

3rd Petal

Member
With Chevy 250 rockers, no, they should just bolt on and go. Trying the Cleveland or Modified rockers is something I’ve wanted to try but never seen anyone else do. That may require different pushrods or other modifications
 

Dr. Marneaus

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Premium Member
Well I poked around a lot last weekend. I still don’t think that one is oiling but I fixed a few issues with the ticking.

turned out two of the nuts were backing themselves up on the studs and the rockers were coming loose. There was little to no resistance when threading the nuts onto the studs. I placed a socket on the nut and let the engine idle and over a few minutes the socket had turned backwards, I could see this by referencing the writing on the socket.

I took the two offending nuts off, set them on the concrete, and smacked them with a hammer. They threaded on with slight resistance. I’ve driven the truck for several days all around town and it’s still running nice and quiet.

also I was having issues with ticking loudly on start up until oil pressure built up, this would happen any time the truck sat for several days. Figured it was draining back. I swapped to a motorcraft oil filter and also went with Lucas Classic Car oil in 10w30 and that issue seems to have gone away as well. No more ticking on start up.

Drove around a lot on Friday Saturday and Sunday, no apparent engine noise.

Need to replace the proportioning valve on the white truck then get it sold.

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Dr. Marneaus

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Premium Member
Sold the white one yesterday, trying to decide on new tires for the highboy so I can get back to the oem style 16" wheels.

Considering Toyo MT's in 255/85r16. I dont really want MT's but I'm pretty sold on that size, and there arent many options. I truly dislike how the mastercraft and cooper AT's look.
 

Dr. Marneaus

Active member
Premium Member
Meh, ordered the Toyos. We'll see what it looks like once I get them mounted.

will be going on stock Steelies. I gotta get some white paint.06B169D3-840C-425D-8691-775480054F4F.jpeg
 
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RARECJ8

Well-known member
Glws. I used to have one back in ‘83 and loved it to death. Had at the time big 33” meats and thought it was the king. Then bought a Toyota...lol.
 

Dr. Marneaus

Active member
Premium Member
Went with pure white instead of the off white cream??? I guess it should contrast well with the orange

Yes. I hemmed and hawed with the same question when I did my Wagoneer that was also a really light tan. Ended up sticking with pure white for the

I’ve never seen the wheels match the two tone and everything I have seen as far as OEM is white that doesn’t match or just gray.

Got the tires mounted at Ray’s today. So. Much. Better. They ride fine. Feels like it’s got a slight pull to the right now, but I’ll see about getting it aligned after I do new kingpin bearings etc


Now I just gotta get my damn tailgate painted with a little bit of rust repair. A buddy of mine has had it for months and I’m thinking about picking it up and trying to find somebody else to strip and shoot it....

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Dr. Marneaus

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Just ran over the hill to granite bay and picked up a perfect tailgate. Now to see about getting it painted....60D9E129-14E9-49EB-BF8A-9BFF13D5E738.jpeg
 

Dr. Marneaus

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Premium Member
Spare is mounted. Considering tossing a hi-lift in front of it. Honestly that would probably be for looks. Seems to look right. But the truck does have solid jack points front and rear between the bumper and massive frame crossmember. We’ll see.

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Dr. Marneaus

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Premium Member
Hi lift mounted.
 

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Dr. Marneaus

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Premium Member
So pretty much out of nowhere I'm getting some serious brake issues. Pulls hard to the right when stopping. If i let go of the wheel it'll spin the wheel to the right when I'm braking.

Rear brakes seem fine. Almost everything back there is new including the drums. It seems balanced. Both rear wheels will lock up at the same time if I mash the pedal. Front passenger wheel will lock up after the rears, but front driver wont lock up no matter how I adjust it. Wheel cylinder is new on driver side. Nothing seemed out of place. It seems like it just wont grab and thats why the truck is pulling to the passenger.

Ive bled the lines several times. No air. Plenty of fluid comes out so I don't think anything is clogged. Lines all look good. Maybe the shoes and or drum are glazed?

I went through all the brakes and worked on them nearly all weekend, nothing I have done has changed this for the better. I'm not sure whats going on. I've dealt with drum brakes plenty in my life and never had this much issue.
 

3rd Petal

Member
I’ve had that issue once with an 88 Bronco, it showed up when there was moisture in the air like there has been lately. Never found a obvious smoking gun to what the issue was, but I can assume it was some sort of glaze on the brake shoes. I took everything apart and sanded a bit off the shoes and sanded the drums, they were old but had tons of friction material left, and when I put it back together it worked fine.
I also found before I sanded them, if I rode the brakes for 1/4 mile or so, they would heat up and work normal again until I parked the truck or did along freeway drive
 

Dr. Marneaus

Active member
Premium Member
I’ve had that issue once with an 88 Bronco, it showed up when there was moisture in the air like there has been lately. Never found a obvious smoking gun to what the issue was, but I can assume it was some sort of glaze on the brake shoes. I took everything apart and sanded a bit off the shoes and sanded the drums, they were old but had tons of friction material left, and when I put it back together it worked fine.
I also found before I sanded them, if I rode the brakes for 1/4 mile or so, they would heat up and work normal again until I parked the truck or did along freeway drive

Yeah could be. Dunno why one would glaze or pull but I replaced the shoes and i can hit the brakes with my hands off the wheel and it stops straight.

So it’s fine now but Who knows. I’ll see if it occurs again.
 

Dr. Marneaus

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Put about 300 miles on the truck this weekend. Drove great, kept it at 60mph all weekend and smooth as could be.

13mpg too!
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Dr. Marneaus

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I’ve done a few other maintenance items. Fluid change in the rear diff, transfer case, and transmission. Things are pretty smooth now.

I am however getting some weird driveline noises.

- particularly in 3rd and 4th, likely due to speed. When the driveline is loaded, clutch let out, I get a slightly squeaky rattle noise. If I press the clutch and coast it goes away.

- if I’m driving and press the clutch to shift I get a clank. Sounds like hollow metal. Then when I shift and let off the clutch sometimes I get another. Also if I’m barely moving and am kind of quick on the clutch to make the truck jolt, it’ll happen. I believe I have tracked this to the rear end and drive shaft. There is a little pinion slip not not much and I don’t believe it’s the actual diff making the noise. I jacked up the rear end and with the truck still in gear of I quickly move a rear wheel back and forth through the pinion slack, it’ll ring like a bell, but what’s ringing is the driveshaft. If I grip the driveshaft and do this the ring is muffled and nearly gone.

I thought maybe the dust cover behind the pinion yoke was loose or bent, but I my seems fine and doesn’t move. However maybe the axle is shifting under load and the dust cover is contacting the snout of the diff?

Either way I lubed the u joints and pushed out a bunch of black grease from them all. Maybe I will change out the u joints since they appear very old, but I haven’t noticed any play in them. They could still be making the noise under load however.

not sure what the heck is causing it but I can hear the rattling/squeaking when I’m driving at any speed of 40 or above. It’s audible on the highway as well….until I press the clutch then it goes away.
 

Dr. Marneaus

Active member
Premium Member
Just realized this weekend is my one year anniversary of making the terrible decision of buying this thing. Regretted it ever since it hit my driveway.

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