1989 Cherokee

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Yeah flux core seems like it’s SMAW meets GMAW. Honestly I wouldn’t know the difference between the two without cutting some pieces apart and even then it’s probably more ‘poor welding experience’ than one being better than the other.

Should be picking up a bottle to swap for GMAW shortly. Maybe I’ll just go ‘dual shielded flux core’ and have the best of both worlds. Either way, it’s one step closer in getting this build moving along.
 

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
75/25 gas and regulator with hose are in place.
TMCC will FINALLY allow in person classes today so I can start welding practice again. Buying a cylinder on Craigslist ended up not saving me as much as I thought. $100 for the used tank, $58 for the exchange, $30 for the hydro test since it was out of date, and $21 for the cylinder cap totals out to $209. I’m pretty sure I was quoted about $240 to show up and buy a new 150cu. ft. tank locally.

Receipt says it’s a 171 cu ft and the store said I was giving them a 150 so maybe I made out. Maybe there is some kind of ‘it’s called a 150 but it’s ACTUALLY a 171’ thing I’m not aware of.

Victor regulator, some 0.030 contact tips and a pack of nozzles to have on hand and I’m now setup for dual shielded flux core welding. After a lot of practice at TMCC this will finally get moving. I’ve been itching to weld on the frame stiffeners I have sitting here. Soon this should be photos of my welds.

I need to figure out if I’m going to stretch the front axle forward, and if so what I need to do about coil spring mounts in the body.

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EDIT: Turns out parts for this welder are available at Specialty Welding Supply, and the nozzles match the Vulcan brand from Harbor Freight.
 
Last edited:

Fernley818

Member
You are aware that dual shield is not just regular flux core and gas correct? There is dual shield wire specific to that. Just using gas with regular flux core is a waste. It sounds to me that would would be best now to just get a roll of ER70S-6 and use that with your 75/25 for what you plan to do.


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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
You are aware that dual shield is not just regular flux core and gas correct? There is dual shield wire specific to that. Just using gas with regular flux core is a waste. It sounds to me that would would be best now to just get a roll of ER70S-6 and use that with your 75/25 for what you plan to do.


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Yes. It’s a special wire I’ll probably never use and probably wouldn’t buy because I’d not want to pay for it. It’s probably REALLY expensive and REALLY strong too. I’m sure some 0.030 ER70S will get me more than enough strength. I just have to get good penetration.

The welder has a roll of 0.035 flux core in there now. If TMCC learned me how to use it sooner than the third semester I might just go with it.
 

DirtyChemist

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Premium Member
Took the driver drum and hub off to paint them. Bunch of rust removed. Bunch of rust still remains on the brake shoes and all parts inside the drum. I’m not sure how the inside of a drum rusts unless it was outside in the ran for a few years. Plan is to paint the rear hubs to match the front.

Seal looked good. Bearings feel amazing. Axle shafts and O Rings look good as new. After some research they’re CLOSE to 14 bolt size, and a 14 bolt is still probably the greatest axle ever made. If I start breaking this one I’ll swap over. For now I should just buy the rear Yukon locker and figure out how to install it with my free time.

Started
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Starting
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Rust removal. I did what I could about the lugnut holes.
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Rust removal.
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Finished.
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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
One. That’s Right ONE Yukon 4340 chromoly outer stub and hardcore locking hub installed. Yukon stub shaft measured about 1/4 inch LONGER that the stock shaft. It’s 35 spline too. I’m not sure if the 30 spline option would work with factory or anything OTHER than Yukon brand hubs.


Old on the left. New on the right
1.25” old diameter
1.45” new diameter
Measure with my dial calipers.

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This all has to come out. Two reasons
1.) I didn’t install the u joint C clips
2.) the u joint needs to be replaced. The needle bearings inside the cap looked rusted. I’m surprised the C clips didn’t come off in two pieces.

The new Yukon hubs came with a new spiral type snap ring to fit on the new stub shafts. It actually went it MUCH easier than I expected which probably means next time it’s going to fight me tooth and nail. I’m just glad it fit because I was VERY concerned it wouldn’t and the money I saved wasn’t going to work in my favor.
 

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Great stuff you're working on. I'm excited to see its completion.

Yeah I’m looking forward to the days (late nights) of welding stuff on and getting the new axles under it. I’m sure I’ll have to remind myself of the end game when I’m cramped from trying to weld frame stiffeners on without having the Jeep high enough for it to be comfortable.

Turned the sterling around to get a ‘before’ photo. I hate red. Also, the inside of the drum is rusty and the brake shoes are as well. P probably should replace them, but at this moment it’s money I will pot towards steering, spring perches, and links to get axles under the Jeep. I can park it with rust brakes and the axles swapped into place.

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Old va new.

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Dr Smash

Well-known member
Reno4x4 Vendor
I personally dislike welding on the Jeep unibody. When welding on the stiffeners the zinc boils in between the folded layers and blows your molten first layer of sheet metal out towards you and burns the hell out every layer of clothing and skin it reaches.


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DirtyChemist

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Premium Member
Yukon 35 spline outer stub shaft, Stage 8 spindle nut hardware, Yukon hardcore locking hubs and new Spicer SPL55-3X u joints installed. I took more video than photos.



I joint removal. One shaft had rust INSIDE the caps. This one was actually decent other than being rusted in place. Much nicer removing them in the garage than a trail fix.
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New u joint and outer shaft. It’s actually longer than the stock shaft, and since it is 35 spline it requires aftermarket hubs. I assume the 30 spline work with factory hubs and yet I’d just upgrade the hubs and spindle nuts anyways now that I know about the upgrades.
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Probably overlooked a lot. Greasing the inside O ring of the Yukon hubs makes it not ‘sound like a goose is stuck inside your hub’ as a friend said. It wasn’t the easiest thing to get them apart and they went back together easily. Instructions say to do this yet provide no photos of what each piece looks like apart. Just a drawing showing you an O ring is in there. I don’t think this was mentioned in any video I saw about them.
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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Those are some nice looking hubs !

Their engagement is downright sexy and the stage 8 nuts combined with the hubs is probably an engineering masterpiece. If I can get the video together (stupid go pro formats) you’ll get to see a lot more. Hopefully. Unless the focus was off.
 

Dr Smash

Well-known member
Reno4x4 Vendor
Either one is fine. This is the preferred technique I use.


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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Cool. I dabbled with flux core on the pinch welds this weekend. Successfully burned through or didn’t have enough voltage/currant to melt the sheet metal to some sliders.

I needed something to hid the dents from my first trip into Rubicon.

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Passenger side. Enough tack weld to hold them to the pinch seam under the doors. Plans are to weld them to stiffness....when I get my stiffies in.
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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
More parts were acquired recently.

Sterling 10.25 Yukon Grizzly
Ruffstuff GM crossover steering, rear shock mounts , +2 spring perch kit, front frame braces/stiffener kit, and some shocks thanks to the market on the page of faces being searchable without an account.

Shocks are going to need some parts. It will probably cost me the same as buying them new if I replaced everything missing, a shaft and have them professionally rebuilt.

King 2.5 14” coilovers.

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37” center to center fully extended.
About 23” collapsed.
One won’t fully collapse and I assume there is still some nitrogen in the shock.
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The brown mark is from tire run I believe. I don’t THINK the body needs to be replaced, but I’m sure a professional would tell me it needs to be replaced.

The previous owner didn’t baby these. I have no idea why the parts that are missing are missing. Who loses stop nuts or takes them to the next set of shocks?
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No clue what springs I’ll end up running. I might buy/borrow springs to get an excellent idea of what it is instead of researching a bunch then guesstimating.
 
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