1989 Cherokee

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
I did my best to drill and tap. It’s…there. I haven’t tried to torque anything down because another problem has arisen. I can’t find a way to secure the driveshaft to the rear yoke.

Sterlings are a strap style yole retainer.
The opening measures 1 13/16 (1.806) and this matches a strap. The Spicer 1350 strap kit I bought matches this but the yoke doesn’t have any threads. It’s completely smooth. The only girdles I can find are 1.6” center to center.

I’ve already installed the crush sleeve and yoke from the gear install. I literally never thought about having any kind of problem finding u joint retainers. I DID think of upgrading to a flange or stronger yoke but never did and just went ahead with installing everything. So I either reuse a crush sleeve that’s never been stressed beyond install, or buy a new one and redo the bearing preload process that sucked so I can take the yoke with me to find what works or replace it with something else.

Just not going how I expected at all.
 

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Oh yeah and I can’t think of a good way to shove the rear tires up more. I took the rear shocks off and still couldn’t stuff them 35 inch tire to the fenders. Either I’m the only person who doesn’t need a tuck and fold/body clearance to tuck 35s OR (more likely’ I’m going to find out the hard way I have clearance issues with gas tanks, differentials, shock mounts, or something else.


At least I found a stainless steel brake cable to replace the stock Ford one. Skyjacker brake cables are DOT approved and had the fittings I needed for a Ford with a lift kit. Bolted right up to the hard line fittings and the other braided lines I have going to each wheel.

I took one emergency brake cable off to see if I can find a replacement. It’s low on the priority list if I can get the rear drum brakes working. I’m no mechanic so making sure all the springs are in the right location and they function correctly can make me stressed out because ‘you’re going to fucking die if this doesn’t get done right’ is a constant thought.


Someone I know suggested using chain to hold the axle up on one side and let the other droop. I’m not sure what this accomplishes. If I can’t stuff one tire more the other side won’t droop more because the stuffed side is chained somehow.

Wheels on it right now have about 5 1/4” backspacing. The 17s I have with bald 40s have 3.5 I think so they’d stick out much more to clear shocks. The 35s this far in I THINK match, or are in more, than 40s on 3.5” backspaced 17s. Cross that bridge later I guess.
 

jsipe007

Member
I did my best to drill and tap. It’s…there. I haven’t tried to torque anything down because another problem has arisen. I can’t find a way to secure the driveshaft to the rear yoke.

Sterlings are a strap style yole retainer.
The opening measures 1 13/16 (1.806) and this matches a strap. The Spicer 1350 strap kit I bought matches this but the yoke doesn’t have any threads. It’s completely smooth. The only girdles I can find are 1.6” center to center.

I’ve already installed the crush sleeve and yoke from the gear install. I literally never thought about having any kind of problem finding u joint retainers. I DID think of upgrading to a flange or stronger yoke but never did and just went ahead with installing everything. So I either reuse a crush sleeve that’s never been stressed beyond install, or buy a new one and redo the bearing preload process that sucked so I can take the yoke with me to find what works or replace it with something else.

Just not going how I expected at all.

Do you have a u bolt style yoke for the sterling? If so this is generally considered an upgrade over the straps.

The yoke holes will be smooth not threaded in this case.

If so, these are the style you’d need :
47dff946233d34043281d7153a2f3e0f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Do you have a u bolt style yoke for the sterling? If so this is generally considered an upgrade over the straps.

The yoke holes will be smooth not threaded in this case.

If so, these are the style you’d need :
47dff946233d34043281d7153a2f3e0f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think so. I just haven’t been able to source U bolts for the yoke. Internet says it is strap and the straps line up perfect, but the bolts are short and the yoke is smooth. This would tell me it’s a U bolt style. I just need the u bolts to be about 1.806 center to center.
 

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Purchased a new U bolt style yoke from Denny’s driveshafts for the rear. The reason nothing worked is the threads in the stock unit were rushed out. I thought about putting bolts through the straps, but a forged yoke was $125 and comes with a new nut. I really wish I’d have bought the yoke when I did the locker install, but I was being cheap and stupid. Now I’m thinking I need one for the Dana 60 just to save another attempt at the same thing.
 

DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Cherokee is home.
Driveshaft is in.
I test drove it and realized I didn't add gear oil. It makes a cool wizzing noise about 20 mph. OOPS. 4 quarts of Lucas 85w90 wasn't enough to get it 100% full.
Either I blew up the locker, it never worked, or Grizzly lockers are pretty quiet.
4.10s and 35s makes it feel like I actually have power compared to 3.54 and 33s.
I still need to find a good way to flex the rear end so I can measure/cut for 35s then 40s.
I have a dakota master cylinder to test out. It was $11 from pick n pull. Hopefully it bolts up like the ram 2500 master cylinder does and gives me comparable power. I can stop. I just have an extremely soft pedal. Also lots of travel. I'm sure part of it is the stainless lines.
 
Top