Cheap Truck!! 84 Wronco

3rd Petal

Member
Starting an ultimate budget build. Its a 1984 Ford Bronco with a 351 and a c6. So this truck was abandoned at a rental property, and we were called to pick it up and tow it to our impound yard. After no one came to pick it up and the lien paperwork cleared, I picked it up for $300.

The first order of business was getting it running. Upon first inspection I found the starter was burned out. Upon closer inspection I realized that the start wire on the solenoid was wired to direct battery power, and the ignition switch would not feed power in the start position. So it would appear that the ignition switch broke, the previous owner thought wiring the solenoid to be active all the time would fix it, then when that caused it to crank endlessly until the starter died, they determined the vehicle was unfixable and left it.

A starter and toggle switch-$66.39




Next issue to be addressed was the tires. They weren't bad, but they were only 31's. So I swapped the marginally decent 31's for some hopelessly bald 33's

Set of junk tires-FREE




Total cost so far- $366.39
 
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DaGimp

Well-known member
I had an 86 302 or 350? 4 speed for a year. I was always amazed what that thing could do. Mine was completely stock.
 

3rd Petal

Member
Took the top off, rear seat out, and took out the nasty stained carpet



Under seat bonus!



Two pennies and half can of brake clean- -$0.02

Total cost so far-$366.37
 
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rundovr

New member
Im running 1985 Bronco with six inch lift and 35's. Im running a straight six. When you get done lets take it out.
 

3rd Petal

Member
Im running 1985 Bronco with six inch lift and 35's. Im running a straight six. When you get done lets take it out.
Yeah, I've seen your Bronco before. Saw it on Gary's memorial run, and its been 5 or 6 years, but I bought a trailer hitch I believe from you and I saw it then. We can definitely take it out wheeling one day. Or any time you need someone to go wheeling with ya for that matter, I've got a few other rigs as well we could take. This is just my cheap hack project

Actually, Gary and I had a plan to go from Fernley to V.C. on dirt one day, never got around to it though. I'll see if I can find the route we plotted out on google earth, that might be a nice run to do
 

3rd Petal

Member
Boxed and extended the stock radius arms 21" with some 1/8" plate and 1 3/4" .120 wall HREW tubing sleeved with 1 1/2" .120 wall. We shall see if they hold up or not being that long and using crap tubing




Used some aluminum round stock I had laying around to make some 2 1/2" spring spacers. This was a dual front shock bronco, so I was able to take the longer front shock and move it to the rear mount. That way under extension the shock maxes out just before the brake line becomes a limit strap. Also it still hits the bump stop just before the shock bottoms out, although I doubt it will ever hit them with the stiff stock springs



Scrap tubing and aluminum round stock- Free!! I had it laying around:cool:

Total cost so far- $366.37
 
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3rd Petal

Member
Did a little more general hackery today
Found out that with an old U-bolt, the striker post for the folding rear seat can make an excellent spare tire mount





Just need a spare tire of the proper size now


Also threw some 1" blocks that I had in the rear to go along with the 2 1/2" spacers I put up front, then took it out to make sure it stayed together



 
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rundovr

New member
Im definitely interested in how those long arms work out some of the older full-size rangers came with them. How did you determine the length for them?
 

3rd Petal

Member
Im definitely interested in how those long arms work out some of the older full-size rangers came with them. How did you determine the length for them?
By the amount of scrap tubing I had laying around. And as long as they don't bend they should work out great. If you are just running the stock radius arms with drop brackets on your Bronco, extended radius arms will help a lot. Second to the uber stiff springs these things come with, the stock radius arms are a main reason people think TTB's don't flex. If you have your spring out and cycle your axle beam by hand, you wont get very far before the "donut" bushing on the stock arm starts to bind up. Ideally if you would probably want to make them a twin tube design for strength, or possibly out of 2" .375" wall DOM. Switching to heim joints helps too, if you want to spend the money. That's what I did on the B2 I built for my girlfriend, and it flexes like no other
 

grumpyoldretiredcop

Member
Premium Member
Liking this thread... you have me beat for cheap project truck by a mile so far! :D

Seriously, looking good. Looking forward to seeing how the project goes.
 

rundovr

New member
I think im going to build mine out of 11/2 inch dom with 1/8 in. dimple steel between. Definitely use Heim joints. Keep up the work looks good.
 

3rd Petal

Member
I think im going to build mine out of 11/2 inch dom with 1/8 in. dimple steel between. Definitely use Heim joints. Keep up the work looks good.
That will probably work pretty good. If your gonna drag them over rocks a lot ya might wanna use .250 for the bottom tube, if its just a general trail rig .120 should be fine. Lemme know if you need a hand making them. I've got a tubing bender as well, you gotta bend them or the tires will rub big time. Also, you can check out the build thread for my Bronco II to see the heim jointed arms I built
 

3rd Petal

Member
Threw in a set of Moog adjustable camber/caster bushings to correct the positive camber I got from the spring spacers. The bushings were rated for up to 3.2 degrees of adjustment, but I was only able to get about 2.5 before the body of the upper ball joint started hitting the inside of the axle c. I'm sure that just has to do with manufacturing differences between different brands of ball joints, if I had Moog ball joints to go with the Moog camber bushings, there probably wouldn't be an issue.

Camber/caster bushings- $48.80

Total cost so far- $415.17
 

3rd Petal

Member
Gave in and ordered new shocks. The old ones were completely blown out, and the only purpose they really served was to limit droop in the front end to keep the stock brake lines together. Got Pro Comp ES1000's for the front, and cheap Gabriel's for the rear

4 New shocks- $113.34

Total cost so far- $528.51
 
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