Cheap Truck!! 84 Wronco

3rd Petal

Member
The recent trip out to Moab revealed a few other ares that could use improvement. Namely, the trailer hitch. It did protect the gas tank a little, and offered a good recovery point, but it got drug over absolutely everything



Just taking the hitch off would leave the gas tank very vulnerable, so something had to be done about that.
With the 2" body lift I have there was some room for the gas tank to move up.



On a fullsize bronco, the factory "skid plate" under the tank is also what holds it up. Then there are straps the go over the top to sandwich it in place on top of the skid plate. So I sectioned 2" out of the factory skid plate, and made some hillbilly extensions for the top straps. You also have to notch a little bit out of the crossmember to allow the gas tank to fit up further in the frame





The factory skid plate is better than nothing, but it really doesn't offer too much in the way of protection. Using the same school of thought as I did on my front bumper, I made a simple frame-width rear bumper that carried under to a skid plate.




I also got a new fuel pump to replace the one that died at Moab




Rear bumper/skid plate- Free, made from an old work bench
Fuel pump- $21.46
Total cost so far- $1660.79
 
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3rd Petal

Member
Took it up a canyon off USA Parkway and thrashed on it a little on Memorial Day. Ended up breaking a hub and a steering u-joint, which took out the ears on both the inner and stub shaft

 

3rd Petal

Member
Last time I was at Picknpull I grabbed a Dana 50 long side inner stub/slip joint. It is basically a direct swap as the splines and shaft diameter are the same from the 44 to the 50, but the 50 uses a bigger U-joint and has a bit more meat on the slip yoke


Requires just a little clearancing on the axle beam



On TTB axles, from the factory there is a c-clip that holds the inner stub shaft in, but with that in place it requires disassembly of the 3rd member to get that shaft out if you break it on the trail. Most people put a small spring inside the slip yoke to hold outward pressure and keep the stub shaft in. I did that when I put the limited slip in, but I wasn't too happy with it. I had to weld the dust cap in to keep if from blowing off the end of the slip yoke, then when I broke a U-joint it forced the axle shaft through the dust cap and I lost it as well as the spring.

On my Bronco II I have it set up similar, but with the spring on the outside of the axleshaft, not inside to slip yoke, so I decided to set this one up the same. I searched around for a while and couldn't find anything about anyone ever running a external spring on a 44TTB, only on the 35's. Also, I had a hell of a time trying to find a spring the right size to fit over a 44 shaft. The one I used on the 35 in my Bronco II was to small to fit a 44 shaft, and I was about to give up on the idea until I noticed the seat spring on my riding mower looked about the right size. It's a little stiffer than it needs to be, it's probably 50-60 PPI, but it works

Craftsman riding mower seat spring, part number 124181X


The spring coiled in at the end where it would normally mount, so that had to be cut off



Then a couple beads of weld were needed to keep the spring from jumping up and sliding down the length of the shaft. I kept them as cold as I could so they would just stick to the shaft but not really burn into it

 
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3rd Petal

Member
Assembled under the truck



Last step was to throw in good U-joints while I was there, Spicer 760X's on the outers, and a 1350X in the D50 inner.
Then some poser shots flexing on the trailer






D50 inner-$60.98
Craftsman 124181X spring-$8.83
Spicer U-joints-$47.23

Total cost so far-$1777.83
 
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3rd Petal

Member
Just got back from a wheeling trip to Niagara Rim trail, thrashed on it pretty good with a bit of carnage. I'll get a write up done in the trail reports section, but here are a few pics until I get the rest uploaded



 
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3rd Petal

Member


Got the passenger side radius arm fixed the same way I did the driver side when it bent, straightened it and welded a piece of C channel welded across the back.

I did some pretty good tweaking on the front bumper too. Slammed it into a few rock faces pretty hard a couple times and bent it a bit and peeled the roller fairlead open. Then bent it a bunch more winching at a really bad angle.



Got it straitened out the best I could then welded a piece of angle iron across the front to reinforce it. Also switched to a hawse fairlead.
Then I cut about 5 inches out of the frame and cut the bottom half of the grill so I could move the winch in





Hawse fairlead- $17.19

Total cost so far- $1795.02
 
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3rd Petal

Member
Latest update kinda threw the "budget build" out the window.
The 15 year old Interco SSR's were getting pretty sad, and I put a good 4" gash in one. So I managed to get a hold of some 37x12.50x16.5 BFG Baja T/A's, then recentered some 12 bolt H1 wheels I had laying around from a previous project



I went through a couple methods of measuring to get the center straight, but apart from making a fancy jig the best method I found was to put a straight edge across the back of the wheel and measure down to the new center at multiple places around the wheel





H1 wheels- Already had them
Wheel centers and rock rings- $371.22
Tires-$625.00

Total cost so far- $2791.24
 
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moto

New member
Nice budget build. Actually exactly what I wanted to see. I have an 81 beater I picked up for 100 bucks and wanted to see some 3rd gen (body style) action pics. To my surprise you have Vids too! Even better. I'll be following a very similar route for my build. Anyway good job on the build! Glad to see someone smart enough to get some flex and worth out of that TTB!

PS learned something-D50 shaft works for 44TTB. Thanks for that. Also what kind/size spring did you use on the 44 (outside the shaft).
 

3rd Petal

Member
Nice budget build. Actually exactly what I wanted to see. I have an 81 beater I picked up for 100 bucks and wanted to see some 3rd gen (body style) action pics. To my surprise you have Vids too! Even better. I'll be following a very similar route for my build. Anyway good job on the build! Glad to see someone smart enough to get some flex and worth out of that TTB!

PS learned something-D50 shaft works for 44TTB. Thanks for that. Also what kind/size spring did you use on the 44 (outside the shaft).
This is the spring I used on the axle shaft http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Part-124181X-Spring/dp/B000K1Q0Y4

I searched around hardware stores for a while, but none of them seemed to carry springs with a big enough I.D. to fit over the axle shaft. It needs to have an I.D. of about 1 3/8". Doesn't need to be too stiff, 15-20 PPI would probably do the job, that craftsman spring is quite a bit stiffer but it shouldn't hurt anything
 

3rd Petal

Member
Nothing much new. Got groovy with my new BFG's





Should have done some before and after testing to see if the groves really did anything, but I didn't. I can tell you that grooved BFG Baja T/A's work better than bald 15 year old Interco SSR's though
 
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3rd Petal

Member
Been a while since I've updated this.
The turd has been continually breaking and getting upgrades over the last year. I've lost track of my running budget tally, but I think this project has changed from strictly a budget build to more of a somewhat budged minded build with money spent in a few places.
So after splitting 2 carrier bearing caps in Moab last year, and blowing up the lock-right I had in the rear at Rubicon, I decided to throw a little money at the rear end. So it now has a Summit Racing brand 3rd member with big 3.25 carrier bearings, and a used nascar detroit locker

Next up was the radius arms. The stock ones that I cut in the middle and extended had served their purpose, but over the years they have ended up pretty bent and scabby. I also noticed I would always slide nicely down the radius arm, but then dig in and get stuck on the radius arm bracket. So after talking with my buddy Silas, we came up with a new design. We went with a twin tube design with a sweep in the end that should hopefully let it slide smoothly off the end of the arm and not hang up on anything. Sucks that I had to give up about 3" of clearance vs the old arms, but our theory is that I was always gonna find the rocks with the radius arms, so as long as they slide good I shouldn't get hung up



Next issue I noticed while under the truck building my radius arms, was that my frame was cracked next to the steering box. So I had to weld up the frame, then I added ram assist to try to take some of the stress of the frame. I went small with the ram, perhaps a little smaller than I should have, but this was my reasoning. Firstly, a small ram was cheaper, and secondly, I was afraid to go too big and end up overwheleming my stock pump or stock tie rod ends. So I ended up with a little 1" ram, which I can tell does something, it doesn't do a lot though. So I might step up to a 1.5" down the road


Lastly, I added a front hoop into the factory roll bar with some cheap 1 1/2" .120 wall tube.
Sorry for being light on pictures, but the turd is loaded on the trailer and headed to Moab tomorrow, so there should be lots of pictures to come shortly
 
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moto

New member
Thanks for the update, it's fun to see what other people are doing with these big broncos. I recently built some custom radius arms for mine. Got a bit impatient and rushed so they are not how I'd like them but hey, it was a $100 bronco :rolleyes: lookin forward to more pictures!
 

3rd Petal

Member
This thing is still around and still growing, when I get the time I'll post more updates. But for now here are a couple pictures from Rubicon last month





Also, I'm working on getting all my pictures out of photobucket, so hopefully the whole build thread will be view-able shortly
 
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