Thanks !
Thanks !
Did you change your weld halfway through that cover pass?
As my tmcc welding class chalkboard says....your welds need to be more consistent. Lol. I can’t even rig or technically trust myself to mig yet. Can’t wait to get to that part of class and burn my truss in.
As my tmcc welding class chalkboard says....your welds need to be more consistent. Lol. I can’t even rig or technically trust myself to mig yet. Can’t wait to get to that part of class and burn my truss in.
I was attempting a weave with the TIG, didn't go so well needed more filler and less undercut.
I took the welding classes at tmcc. Scott's a great teacher, not sure if he's there any more its been a decade. Thats where I really learned how to weld and its fundamentals. Remember real men weld with 6010.
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I took the welding classes at tmcc. Scott's a great teacher, not sure if he's there any more its been a decade. Thats where I really learned how to weld and its fundamentals. Remember real men weld with 6010.
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Oh he is there. I agree he is a great teacher, and wants you to succeed. He makes welding look and seem easy though.
oh yeah, what are your plans for a drive shaft and who are you going to get it from? Apparently those are needed after an axle swap.
I got my front taken cared of, with the rear I'm going to go with Tatton's drive shaft https://www.tattonsdrivelines.com/ .
I got my front from them last year and its been great right out the box.
You mean 7010 (Hippie Rod) and 7018.... lol
Also if you are not in a hurry and not in a compromising position, a foot pedal is your best friend while GTAW.
1350 U joints front and rear? 2" 0.250 wall tube? It will apparently be $800 in drive shafts for this thing. I use to think running shoes were expensive.
Nothing too exciting. Just practicing on some TIG and cutting and measure all the rear brackets, with the added length everything needs to shift over 1.25" so had to cut part of the truss.
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That’s a super huge corner to corner weld. It looks like you were super hot and you couldn’t add enough filler fast enough. I would have used my 400 amp torch with a 5/32 tungsten and modulated my heat input and also have done that run in 3 increments with a 20 minute cool in between.
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I was using a foot pedal lol
Running shoes aren't expensive if you buy last years models haha ( always had to wait for the Hokas and Altras to go on sale)
20 min cool time ? Aight nobody got time for that ! jk. In hindsight I should of just used my MIG on this one with a few passes.
Got to test fit the Sterling elocker to figure out placement of the cable gland before welding the casting.
Bought some casting MIG wire Royal 44-30 which was incredibly messy to weld, but after some practicing got it to look somewhat decent.
Bought some casting MIG wire Royal 44-30 which was incredibly messy to weld, but after some practicing got it to look somewhat decent.
Any plans for hydro assist?
Yep, Jeep currently has one, that I tapped and Drilled. Not sure if I can still use the current ram due to the different throws but easly upgradable.
Limit the travel of your Ram to match the linear travel of your tie rod. This will alleviate undue stress that a ram traveling to its total travel while the steering box is at full lock.
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Thanks Eric ! I will look into that, much cheaper than buying a new ram !
High nickel content TIG rods?
Do the gears. It’s fun. By fun I mean really REALLY time consuming and worth paying $700/axle to have it done. Unless you like taking things apart to put them back together. Lol! But seriously, link the YJ after gears. Tons > YJ.
Do the gears. It’s fun. By fun I mean really REALLY time consuming and worth paying $700/axle to have it done. Unless you like taking things apart to put them back together. Lol! But seriously, link the YJ after gears. Tons > YJ.
Yep its has nickle mixed with manganese.
$700 an axle Damn, I guess you have never heard of Uncle Gerry !
I am looking forward to gear these. Won't be my first rodeo.