Lift going on this weekend!

72 Virginians

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After tweaking my schedule a bit, I decided to begin the lift this weekend. It's the big project among the ones scattered on my garage floor. I'm installing the RE 3.5" superflex kit, RE hack n tap SYE, and 32" Kumhos.
I figure I'll start on the rear Saturday night after I get off of work and do what I can for the next three days.
I still have to trim the fenders, install the tranny cooler, install the hood vents, and figure out those Hella 500's ( :mad: ) which shoud give me enough to do for the next few weeks after the lift.
After running stock for 4 years, it's pretty damn exciting.
 

Fish Sticks

New member
O yeah,
Good luck, if you want some fender trim'n/bump stop help pm me. I have the tools and a bunch of past cutting (CJ, XJ, TJ) projects under my belt. I like cutting. :yes:
 

Connect

New member
Hey if you want help I did my xj a couple months ago, Lot of fresh good knowledge I can pass on to you. New to the SYE kit and trimming but if you want help with the lift I'll be there man. Did I mention I work cheap? Some pepsi or other caffenated beverages is all I need to keep me goin.

(I'm the short fat guy you met at pizza night with the black scion hat, in case you forgot :yes:)

And if you invite cutthroat, maybe he can trim both our fenders cause my front needs to be :)
 

kairo

Moderator
Staff member
SYE is easy. just follow the instructions. pretty hard to screw it up. Much easier to do with the transfer case off the vehicle FYI.
 

Connect

New member
kairo said:
SYE is easy. just follow the instructions. pretty hard to screw it up. Much easier to do with the transfer case off the vehicle FYI.

Errm, do you know how hard it is to get the stock Tcase member off? or are the newer xj's easier? :) i thought the hack'n'tap was real easy to do?
 

kairo

Moderator
Staff member
Connect said:
Errm, do you know how hard it is to get the stock Tcase member off? or are the newer xj's easier? :) i thought the hack'n'tap was real easy to do?

my Xmember is 3 bolts. . . what's yours look like.

Hack 'n tap might be easiest to do on the vehicle. I mis read and got to thinking it was a HD SYE. Still shouldent be that difficult. Just cutting and drilling the main shaft and putting a new cover on it
 

Connect

New member
Well mine has 2 bolts and 2 studs, one of each on each side. To get it off you have to weld nut ends to the studs and carefully back the stud out. Studs are the reason I didn't put my Tcase drop kit on hehe

FYI a stud is a bolt with no head so yea...
 

kairo

Moderator
Staff member
Ohhhhh you're talking about the transmission Xmember. at least thats what I call it. Yah, that guy can be a PITA I was referring to the T/C skid
 

Connect

New member
yeah well the tcase is attatched to it so I call it the tcase xmember :)

no from what I heard the hack'n'tap was real easy for a guy who knew what he was doing. A bunch of drunken techie guys... thats a whole nother deal.
 

72 Virginians

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Staff member
Connect said:
Hey if you want help I did my xj a couple months ago, Lot of fresh good knowledge I can pass on to you. New to the SYE kit and trimming but if you want help with the lift I'll be there man. Did I mention I work cheap? Some pepsi or other caffenated beverages is all I need to keep me goin.

(I'm the short fat guy you met at pizza night with the black scion hat, in case you forgot :yes:)

And if you invite cutthroat, maybe he can trim both our fenders cause my front needs to be :)

Cool, I can use all the help I can get. I'll have a runner for foodstuffs and beverages.
I've been soaking the bolts all week with rust penatrant so, there shouldn't be problems with that.
 

Connect

New member
Hey two things really, did you soak the ubolts and upper shock mounts in the rear? (where the shock mounts to the body) It may be hard to get to them but Eric told me that alot of times those nuts that are welded to the body snap off and you have to rip up the carpet to get them re-welded on. Probably would be less of a problem with a newer one.

Two, what's your tool selection? I'm bringing all my handtools Just in case, but more along the lines of air tools. I can bring a compressor, hose, air ratchet, and impact wrench. Oh and a torque wrench. All things that came in handy when I did mine. When it comes to doing the coil springs (probably not saturday night) you'll really want a strut compessor (coil spring compressor) which you can rent from any kragen for like $6 a day and a $49 deposit. Even with the strut compressor I had to disconnect track bar and the brake lines to get them bastards in.

That's all I can think of atm, PM me with directions and what time you want me to come over.
 

72 Virginians

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Staff member
Connect said:
Hey two things really, did you soak the ubolts and upper shock mounts in the rear? (where the shock mounts to the body) It may be hard to get to them but Eric told me that alot of times those nuts that are welded to the body snap off and you have to rip up the carpet to get them re-welded on. Probably would be less of a problem with a newer one.

Two, what's your tool selection? I'm bringing all my handtools Just in case, but more along the lines of air tools. I can bring a compressor, hose, air ratchet, and impact wrench. Oh and a torque wrench. All things that came in handy when I did mine. When it comes to doing the coil springs (probably not saturday night) you'll really want a strut compessor (coil spring compressor) which you can rent from any kragen for like $6 a day and a $49 deposit. Even with the strut compressor I had to disconnect track bar and the brake lines to get them bastards in.

That's all I can think of atm, PM me with directions and what time you want me to come over.


I don't have any air tools. Just a lot of hand tools. I'm picking up a few odds and ends after work tonight. I have a set of 6 ton jack stands. The track bar has to be removed anyway to put the new one in.
I'm planning on working on the front on Sunday. I'll PM you later with directions and a phone number.
Thanks
 

72 Virginians

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So far I've gone through 2 cans of Mopar rust penatrant and the bolts are looking clean. I hope that does the trick. Stuff works just as well as PB and I get it at a good price.
While i was under there, I got a good look at the muffler. Yeah, another thing added to a long list. Oh well, keeps me busy.
 

Connect

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You can take the muffler off and weld/clamp in a straight pipe (or just run it through a set of custom rocker gaurds :roll:), smog legal and sounds real nice, I'll have to find the link again sometime.

Yes I forgot about jackstands, you only need two so looks like you got that covered. A floorjack or even two would be Smart :)

I really don't anticipate much of an issue with the bolts but the PB stuff helps. Unless it was a Wisconsin or colorado vehicle then you need not really worry.
 

72 Virginians

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Staff member
Connect said:
You can take the muffler off and weld/clamp in a straight pipe (or just run it through a set of custom rocker gaurds :roll:), smog legal and sounds real nice, I'll have to find the link again sometime.

Yes I forgot about jackstands, you only need two so looks like you got that covered. A floorjack or even two would be Smart :)

I really don't anticipate much of an issue with the bolts but the PB stuff helps. Unless it was a Wisconsin or colorado vehicle then you need not really worry.

Yeah, I have a small floorjack that gets the job done.

I bought the vehicle in Va back in 2002. The previous owner bought it new in Jersey when he was visiting relatives. I haven't seen any rust at all on it.
 

Fish Sticks

New member
You don't need to remove the 231 for a hack n' tap on '97 and up rigs, you will have to pull the transfer case skid only. Block your rig, pull the rear driveline, carefully measure and mark per directions. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel (not grinding wheel) for the actual shaft cutting. I choose the daredevil method of cutting while running the vehicle in 2wd reverse (I need to verify if it was reverse or first) with the hand throttle set at about 1500 rpm. I would cut and stop to avoid overheating the shaft. This is not a safe method but does give you a truer cut. This mod was way easier than the lift.
I didn't use spring compressors on my 5.5" coils. I had to remove the steering and brakelines to get enough droop. Do not remove all of your control arms at once, you will struggle with lining up the axle. Have an extra floor jack and a bottle jack ready to help. I would recomend parking the rig with access to the front i.e. back the jeep in your garage for the front install. Its much easier to use a come along if you need to move the axle. Things should go easy on your rig being newer. Good luck
Let me know when you guys want to do some fender trimming.
 
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Connect

New member
I didn't take my steering driveline or upper control arms off. Seems like to much work, rather rent the $6 spring compressor
 

Fish Sticks

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Connect said:
I didn't take my steering driveline or upper control arms off. Seems like to much work, rather rent the $6 spring compressor

Yeah probably not a bad idea. Just checked and the 3.5" kit is lower arms only, that should go on very easy.
 
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72 Virginians

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Just finished picking up a few odds and ends. I checked a couple of Kragens and they didn't have any spring compresers left to rent. I'm gonna check tomorrow and see if I can borrow any from the shop.
I still have to get my tires mounted. I thought they would have that done by today. :banghead:

Oh well, Maybe I can get them tomorrow.
 
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