My Build

Mallford

New member
Since I plan to do some wheeling with you folks someday here I just thought I would share my build on my new heap.

So like 2 months or so ago I actually showed up at pizza night with my 1980 Scout II. Well about 3 weeks later the transmission decided it would not propel me foward anymore. Happend to find another Scout in the paper with some goodies so I bought it for the tranny.

So this is a 1975 Scout that came with some goodies I would put on the my 1980 along with the transmission. It had been sitting in a barn for four years and the barn roof came down on it during this winters snowfall. After a little work, spark plugs and some Marvel oil, I have it running decently well. A new soft top, old 6000lb winch, and alot of rust came along with the purchase. So this will be my trail rig since the body is not pretty and the winch bumper is already on it. (the 1980 is close to rust free.)

Been gathering parts together and this is whats going on over the next month or two.

3" lift springs with reverse shackle (need a welder).
15x10 beadlock rims
35" BFG ATs (used)
SOA rear with stock saggy springs (need a welder).
Shorten some driveline from a junk IH pickup.
Pull the rollbar from my 1980 (ghetto fabbed but better than nothing).
Alot of triming with the sawzall.
Gearing and lockers will probably have to wait till tax season.

Possible mod:
Have a divorced NP205 I would like to double up behind the Dana20. Just need another Scout D20 to chop up to clear the output to the front axle. Cheap way to get to some more gearing options but I am worried if that pig of a case will tuck up in the frame rails without getting in the way of the exhaust.

The carb I know is pretty trashed; likes to run best at either idle or above 3/4 throttle, coughs like hell besides. So I am looking to do a propane set up from propaneguy.com. Bout $300 instead of rebuilding the carb and get way better angles. Just need to find a tank to mount in the bed.

So for now, the 1980 will be getting a transmission rebuild (any reccomended shops??) while the 75 gets the offroad treatment. Hope to get this done before summer is over and get some runs in, even if am geared wrong with limited slips front and rear. Next year will be building the 1980 the right way.
 
Last edited:

Sauce

Active member
good luck, if you need a springover done, I know a guy that does great work for a great price, pm me if you want me to get in contact with him...
 

rusty_tlc

New member
Scottys Transmission over on Glendale is supposed to be the best tranny shop in town. A friend of mine used to work there. He told me they will not cut corners.
My 93 GMC is down there right now. The wiring harness bulkhead gasket was puking. :(
 

Norm the Big

Active member
If you are trying to go on the cheap try out an Autolite 2100 or 2150. I haven't had any trouble with mine yet, even at steep angles which is a relief after other carbs I've run. Check out this pirate post: Motorcraft 2100

I love your build strategy. It sounds alot like mine was with my Bronco. Parts accessible through yards is the way to go IMO. Are you going to SOA the front too?
 

Mallford

New member
I actually just bought a reman. motorcraft 2100 on ebay, hopefully will get here soon cause my Holley 2210 is just trashed. I have heard alot of good things about the 2100 and it basically bolts up, just gotta link up the kick-down somehow. Shouldn't be too bad.

The SOA on the front of a Scout is a pain, there is absolutely no castor stock so when ya point the pinion up your asking for steering issues. Thats one of the few things I hate about my front D44. I am going reverse shackle (2-3") and got some 3" lift springs. Should sit pretty level with the winch and winch bumper weighing it down. The front end will prolly not flex much but the rear should flex pretty well with the saggy stockers over the axle.

Heres the wheels going on, I think they are just about the right amount of obnoxious.

detail
 

spoon

New member
If you want to ditch the kick-down set up all together, you might want to consider using a manual valve body. I am running a reverse pattern manual valve body from Art Carr in my TF 727 and I would highly recommend doing this mod especially if you are going to tear into the tranny anyways. Have you considered ditching the Scout D44's all together? Due to the weight of a Scout, you will have problems keeping those 44's from breaking on you. I would seriously consider running 1-ton axles. The cost maybe more initially, but you will definitely be better off in the long run. Even if you can't afford a D60 right now, I would consider going with a full width D44 front and a D70 or 14-bolt rear. This way you will most likely limit your axle breakage to the front D44. Just my .02 cents. :yup:
 

rusty_tlc

New member
A question, on toyota front ends you can cut and turn the knuckles to fix the pinion angle problem. Is this not possiable on Dana axles?
 

Norm the Big

Active member
It can be done but it's a pita I've heard. Alot of extra work. What side is the diff on a scout. If it's on the pass side then you could swap in a Chevy D44 which comes with 3/4" TR ends stock on the 8 lug versions. Look for half price day at pick n pull.
 

Norm the Big

Active member
Thanks! :thumbsup:
Check out Rust's post on turning the outers. He's got some Yota pics. I added some Dana ones on my link.
 

Mallford

New member
Turning the knuckles on a yota looks alot easier. I have seen some pics of it done and you can do it with a big pipe cutter. With the D44 ya have to grind the welds around the knuckle and beat the piss out of it to turn it.

As far as the axles go, it would be nice to have a ff14 and a D60 but I don't have that kinda money. Weight is an issue but I am trying to drop quite a bit of it by gettin rid of the doors, top and probably tailgate. So far I am in the running for a rig like in the Cheap Truck Challenge in Peterson's. I have only put out about $1000 and shouldn't get much more expensive with just getting perches and shackles to complete the lift.
 

Mallford

New member
Got the Motorcraft 2100 on yesterday and its worlds better. Have not tuned it or anything yet but its pretty damn smooth, prolly get a little power back once its tuned correctly. Now I need to get the lift done and I am close to wheelin.
 
Top