New member
Decided to stick with the aw4 auto, and doing an NP203/Dana 300 dual transfer cases setup:

Here's the factory tail housing before

After: swapped a dodge np203 23 spline input into my GM203 case, has damn near full spline engagement, seal retainers bottom out on each other and the transmission side seal does not sit on the shorter 203 input so I cut it out. GM relies on just the np203 seal(a dual sided seal) to keep atf separate from the gear oil so it should be just fine

Gap before hacking up the tailhousing seal retainer

Grease line Where the trans seal was (no seal)

Sits nice and flush, just gotta disassemble the 203, and re-drill and tap it for the aw4 circle pattern

Settled where I want it, and transfer punched where to drill nice part is the tail housing was a tight/perfect fit over the input bearing retainer so it's self centering

Original holes plugged with flush Allen bolts and rtv

New holes tapped and ready for assembly



New member
Now onto getting the flipped Dana 300 prepped

She was in great shape, so I'm just gonna run it!

Pulled the now top plate added a breather and a sight tube so I can easily check oil level

Adavance adapter np203/300 adapter plate re-sealed and back on



New member
Getting all my Ruff Stuff brackets welded

Adjustable upper link mounts

Pinion guard

Axle side horizontal upper link mounts

Tacked in place on the 9"

Offset chassis link mount brackets for mounting my trailing arms just outside of the frame



New member
Swapping a 1998+ aw4 trans so I used a 1989-1997 tailhousing and just swapped it into the 1998+ trans along with the output speed sensor and rotor, just gotta swap some connectors, solder some wires and it will all be plug and play.

Short fat sensor is the newer style 4 pulse style

Long skinny is the older single pulse style that my jeep is setup for electronically

Removed the black 4 pulse rotor and swapped over a single pulse rotor (jeep has two snap ring slots like they knew us old jeepers would switch to the newer trans)

Forced the jeep to accept the gm203 range box



New member
Welding for hours on the ruffstuff 48" URC trailing arms

Got the 9" more or less in place at ride height so I can get some mounts mocked up

Also made some frame stiffeners to plate the outside of the frame under the cab to reinforce where the trailing arm outriggers will mount

All welded in place



New member
Made a pair of these inner bed frame stiffeners to strengthen where the upper link brackets mount as well as beef up the frame since I have to French the outside frame rail where the factory leaf spring mount is for the coilovers to clear

Made some upperlinks

Got the stiffeners all welded, and upper mounts tacked and links all in for, time to cycle it all again and again and again.

Full bump, upper link axle mount comes into the bed just a little bit



New member
Christmas just keeps on coming.

NorthWest Fabrications cable triple stick shifters for my 203/300 doubler

And my RADesigns Winters electronic control gated aw4 shifter. Super sleek Shifter and switch set. I installed the RADesigns three shift switches and two shift switch cams into the Winters sidewinder gated shifter and it all works flawlessly. I'm going to keep my factory TCM on an on-off switch so I choose between factory Auto or full electronic manual shifting & my torque converter on a three way on-off-on switch so I can select between TCM controlled lockup-no lockup-manual lockup



New member
Starting working on frenching the frame. For the coilovers. Gotta French for the bump stops as well.

Frame material is just shy of 1/8". It's two .100" sheets sandwiched and pinched/spot welded together at the top and overlapped and spot welded at the bottoms

View from the bed looking down through the French and to the trailing arms

Plenty of performance and comfort should be had with King 2.5 series 14" dual rate coilovers and 4" stroke bump stops



New member
the bed cage is "done" and tacked. It has 10 points of contact with the frame. Saved as much bed space as I could without sacrificing strength. Built it so I can add a bypass in later off of the outermost bent tubes.



New member
Frame is frenched and re-plated for coilovers. Bed cage is fully welded. Shocks tacked in place, time to make some bump stop pads, cycle everything, measure for limit straps, and then get everything else welded up. Then move on to getting the transmission and transfercases back in the truck.



New member
Also started working on a junkyard torsion sway bar setup. Pulled a torsion bar out of a 2wd toyota pickup. 35" long and a 22.3mm (7/8") torsion bar splined on both ends(different diameters)

Here's the two splined ends:

Cast end

Mild steel end

Made some simple mounts to mount the torsion bar parallel with a tube that runs between my shock hoops under the bed

I didn't take many pictures but I cut the mild steel down so it was just a 2.25" wide round piece, notched the square tubing and welding it in.

The cast side, I left complete, notched the square tubing and grinded where needed so that it slid right in.

Welded around the whole notch and also to the whole flat side of the arm on the side of the square tubing.

Made my arms out of 2"x2"x.250" square tubing. They have a 1.5" ID so I can run a 5/8 to 1/2" heim double Shear. 22" long is most likely what it will need to be. Also welded in retainers and drilled and tapped the gun drilled ends of the torsion bar for some short 5/16x24 bolts to keep the sway bar arms in place.

Just need to mock it all up and see if I can keep the arms and end links from going parallel without taking the sway bar arms up into my bed at full bump.

I'm sure you guys will want to know cost

Pik-n-pull Torsion bar $25
Metal for arms and end links $60
Poly mount $20
Heim sets and hardware $85
Total: $190 and some fab work

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