tuning a bow

RobVader

New member
Where is a good spot to get a bow tuned/set up. Is cabelas or scheels worth going to? I've used friends bows in the past, and now I'm ready to drop the money on my own. I just want to make sure whoever sets it up does it right.
 

Ben

New member
It's worth learning to do yourself. The bow itself isn't as important as the arrows as far as adjustments go. On a compound with let-off, you set the draw length, usually by ordering it correctly or adjusting or replacing parts. You set the nock point with a T square. Just get a square and read the instructions. You want to know the bow's draw weight, so again either order it or measure it. Then start with a couple bare shafts selected from the chart for your draw weight, and the points you're using, and start paper testing or something similar. If you don't get the concept of paper testing, watch a few videos that explain it. In brief, you're working with the "archer's paradox" to try to get an arrow shaft that will wrap around the riser and straighten out upon release. If it's too stiff it will deflect off the rest/riser. If it's too flexible, it will wrap around too far and fish-tail. Heavier points have more inertia resisting the acceleration of the arrow so they tend to flex the shaft more for a given stiffness. Lighter points less. Longer arrows are easier to flex, shorter are stiffer for a given spine stiffness. You can tune with head weight and arrow length. Start with a shaft in the ballpark using the chart, and with the shaft a bit too long. Cut it about 1cm at a time and retest until it's perfect or a bit too stiff and then go back to a bit longer one. When I test, I don't always use paper. I can just watch the arrow in flight and how it lands in the target (nock left or nock right). You can also verify your nock point position by whether the arrow is porpoising or not. If it helps, use a slow motion camera. That kind of technology is in most people's pockets these days.
 

RobVader

New member
Thanks everyone. I ended up gong to Scheels. Got a bowtech carbon icon, HHA optimizer single pin site, QAD rest. Young kid set it up. Think his name was Christopher. Spent a lot of time making sure everything was right to insure I was happy. Being sunday, they close at 6:00, he didn't rush me. Shot arrows till about 6:30 making sure everything was perfect for me.
 

RobVader

New member
Thanks everyone. I ended up gong to Scheels. Got a bowtech carbon icon, HHA optimizer single pin site, QAD rest. Young kid set it up. Think his name was Christopher. Spent a lot of time making sure everything was right to insure I was happy. Being sunday, they close at 6:00, he didn't rush me. Shot arrows till about 6:30 making sure everything was perfect for me.

correction, the kid from scheels name was Hunter. Don't know why I thought Christopher. Anyways, 5 days of slinging arrows and my arms are sore as hell. I set up a 70 yard range here at the house. Target blocks at both ends so I can shoot either direction. I'm still fine tuning my sites before I put the sight tape on. But at 20 and 30 yards my shot groups are about 2", 40 yards is a fairly consistent 4", 50 yards about 4" group but I typically throw one off a few inches. 60 yards the block seems to be getting smaller and I'm getting 6-8" groups. Shot 70 a few times and I'm at about 12" groups. I do have room to go all the way out to 100 yards,( I know I won't shoot that far on a deer) but I'll try in a few more days just because.
 
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