U joint strap replacement

[Fish Sticks]

Has anyone here sheared the u joint strap bolts that connect the strap to the yoke. The couple times I've seen this it causes the bolts to shear flush at the yoke. I would like to know what kind of trail fix you performed, how did you remove the busted bolts?
As I venture further from the mall I'm piling more tools and tricks in the jeep. I can buy a u bolt style for the front end yoke but nobody makes one for an 8.25 chrysler rear end.
I guess I can carry a cordless drill and some EZ outs, but is there something easier. TIA

 

[Samco Fab]

I have removed those broken bolts out on the trail with a punch and a hammer. If you are very careful, punch an offset dimple between the center of the bolt and the outside edge...counterclockwise and if there is no locktite or rust or burrs, the bolt might come out.
The better way would be carry another yoke with straps. Not a huge deal but if that has a crush sleve pinion set up design, dont overtighten the nut if you change it on the trail, you might have to check the pinion bearing preload when you got home, but it would get you home.
When you yank one from pnp pull the seal and see if it has pinion bearing preload shims or a crush sleve.

 

[Sauce]

you could just carry an extra yoke

 

[Fish Sticks]

Yeah I need to throw some chisels and punchs in the tool box, spare yokes will come. The bolts are only torqued to 14, but they have blue thread locker on them so they are hard to get going. I wish the bolt holes ran all the way through the yoke and then I would just use longer bolts that ran out the back leaving exposed threads so I could bring them through the back if they sheared at the front. My current plan is an onboard hacksaw to groove the yoke and sheared bolt, then try and remove them with a skrew driver.

 

[Samco Fab]

Usually the bolts break just below the surface of the yoke, so you may have to hacksaw for quite a while to make a groove to unthread them :barf: But it might work if you had a propane torch, then you could heat the yoke up to 400 degrees or so, that cooks the locktite so you can remove them easier. If you carry a torch you might as well carry a yoke instead, probably really cheap at a junkyard Or you could put a 1410 yoke in it (connected to a 14 bolt or a 60 )and never have to worry about it....

 

[Dennis]

I wish the bolt holes ran all the way through the yoke and then I would just use longer bolts that ran out the back leaving exposed threads so I could bring them through the back if they sheared at the front.

you might want to check them, as every factory dana yoke i've seen, the hole goes all the way through. just gotta find longer bolts.

 

[JOE THE TOE]

Why not just drill out your yoke to aCCEPT u-bolts! U can get u-bolts from Driveline&gear Service , Kragen. etc.