YJ Build Thread

jsipe007

Member
Nice try! I do have a pair of Bilsteins I’d let go for the right price… inflations a bitch though! The Bilsteins have marinaded in my garage for 5 years now so they gotta be worth at least double


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jsipe007

Member
She runs and drives!

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jsipe007

Member
Haha true! It’s still shy a few items ;) gotta put the new coilovers in the rear and do limit straps. Also need shocks up front and bump stops. But it drove! Lol


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jsipe007

Member
Looking good (y)

Thanks! Working on getting the spring rates dialed now. Just got the coilovers charged to 200lbs and started playing with rates. Running Bilstein 9100 rock crawler coilovers in the rear, unfortunately the fox coilovers will not work with my brackets (I’d have to swap coilover ends, not a big deal) so I’ll save those for the front.

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Above is 165lb top, 200lb bottom. Running a 14in upper spring and 16in lower. With the spare and a bit of extra weight in the back, the rear is two inches higher than the front. This may be a pretty sweet setup! Should ride much better than the original set I was planning (200 over 225, both 14in)


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jsipe007

Member
Right now I am running almost no preload on the springs. I ran the adjusters down until they just started tensioning the coils. I plan to get all the weight in the back of the Jeep and see where she sits then adjust from there. From everything I’ve read, it seems like 2-3in or so would be a decent place to land. I also tend to overload on camping trips. I may run to summit to get some 150 lb upper springs, we will see!

The Bilsteins I’ve got are a bit older and hard to find info on but they are a 9100 series coilover, rock crawler valving.

First time running coilovers so got a lot of learning to do. Reason I am running a 16in spring lower is because with the 14s, at ride height I had to adjust the collars and lost tension on the springs at full droop. I may be a noob with coilovers but even I know that’s bad haha

Limit straps are next for tomorrow, gotta mock them up and weld the frame side brackets. On the axle side I’ll use the lower coilover bolt.

Hit a slight snag today and had to swap the clutch slave cylinder. Old one appears to have been leaking and letting air in the line. Hope this fixes that issue.

Front bump stops are mocked up on the bench and need to be burned in. Pics to follow tomorrow.

I’m putting off the front 3 link/panhard till I get some crawling time behind the wheel but man these coilovers make me want to knock the front out haha


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jsipe007

Member
Limit straps mounted and ready. Not terribly stoked about the lower mount but we will see. Should get me out on the trails!

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jsipe007

Member
Little shakedown run today on Bud canyon. Pretty stoked with how everything turned out! Need to hear her a bit lower still though. Atlas maybe or I’m toying with nv4500 swap

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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
caryt just sold his NV4500/Atlas 4.3 combo on here. Are you just wanting to go slower over everything now?

Looks like a lot of fun. This makes me want to jump into the deep end and get my axle swap going. Maybe when it's done we'll hit trails together.
 

jsipe007

Member
caryt just sold his NV4500/Atlas 4.3 combo on here. Are you just wanting to go slower over everything now?

Looks like a lot of fun. This makes me want to jump into the deep end and get my axle swap going. Maybe when it's done we'll hit trails together.

I did see that and I was toying with a NV4500 swap. I talked to Advance Adapters and unfortunately they don’t make anything that drops into my setup. I’ve got a later YJ with essentially the TJ drivetrain, 4.0 and ax15 with external slave cylinder.

All their swap kits are for the AMC 4.2/4.0 with Peugot transmission.

Due to that I’ve been thinking 5:1 atlas instead. Ive got one sitting in the cart for $2800 haha. Lotta coin but that would give me 100:1 crawl ratio versus my current 55:1 ratio. I know a few friends running similar combos that all really like them. If I could pick up a rubicon case on the cheap I’d consider that but they run $2k for a used one these days. Teralow no longer supports their 4:1 conversions too so when it blows up you are sol

Most my friends run in 2nd with the atlas then for steep crawling shift into first. Seems like a good solution for what I am after. But the good news is I can wheel it for 6 months till the atlas shows up! Haha

Definitely! I lost motivation for a while on my build but seeing all my friends out there wheeling finally got me anxious to get mine going again. There’s lots of fun trails in the area and I definitely want to hit Fordyce and Rubicon soon as well


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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Shipping is about $400. The one I was pricing was about $3,300 to my door. I decided I didn’t need a 4 speed with almost 11:1 on hand. I agree about the rubicon cases vs atlas. They were a great choice at $1,000. Now at $1,500+ for the one or two I’ve seen listed I would rather pay for an atlas and never worry again. For those prices I could buy driveshafts and wheel with the NP231 and when it breaks upgrade and buy NEW driveshafts.


Gearing is always going to be a big decision. My buddy has an atlas 4.3 with 5.13 gm gears on 40s and said he is getting going with numerically lower gears after running the setup.
 

jsipe007

Member
Good info! I’m running the 5.38s and was having a hard time between 4.3 and 5:1 but I decided 5:1.

I definitely think the atlas is a worthwhile upgrade, I did speak to a few people who ran the nv4500 behind the 4.2/4.0 on pirate and all said that the gearing splits were too wide so that is something I never considered before.

I agree as well, the atlas 4 would be sweet but the 2 is just the better price point. I plan on doing a rear flange output and I’ll just run the front 1350 to match the hp60.

Drivelines aren’t cheap but it’ll definitely be worth it haha. Really the only way I’m seeing to gear it down. I can’t even find a 241OR from a TJ now for less than $1800. All the ones I’m seeing are JK. Should have snatched one up a long time ago ha.


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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Why are you doing a rear flange? I’ve thought about flange on my Sterling because I once read it spins on the rocks unlike a yoke. Also seems stronger.

I currently have a flange on my NP231 that I THINK came from AA or Tom Woods. I haven’t tried it but supposedly works with a 1310-1350 or 1410 u joint. Only reason I run it is the flange came with a used SYE kit I bought.


Edit: how are those 5.38s on the freeway?
 

jsipe007

Member
Biggest reason for the flange is that it’s much more universal. 1350 cvs seem much harder to find and more expensive but tons of vendors make 1350 drivelines for JKs and others that bolt right up to the flange.

I don’t want to be limited to just 1310s and would much rather have the option of going with the stronger joints. I’ve also heard that you can get a bit more angle out of the flange using the Saginaw cv versus a spicer cv.

To be clear the axle has a 1350 yoke already, I’ll just run a flange at the case.

The 5.38s are honestly pretty darn good on the street! I doubt I’ll ever use overdrive again though haha. The welded rear diff may need to be addressed one day though.


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DirtyChemist

Well-known member
Premium Member
Good point about aftermarket support for a flange. I know you said you had a yoke at the axle. I’ve just considered flange all around.
 

jsipe007

Member
Yeah for sure! I have a pinion guard on the 14 bolt so flange doesn’t make as much sense there, I just stuck with the factory yoke. The 14 bolt yoke is also strong as heck compared to the Dana style yokes. The u joints sit 2/3in the yoke versus half way in the yoke. The straps don’t see nearly as much stress I’d imagine so pretty stout design. I know a lot of people say that the straps are the weak spot on the Dana 1350s!


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